Butterflying from a cruise ship. December 2022

[Stevieb]

After a last-minute cancellation of our Caribbean cruise from Fort Lauderdale in March 2020, due to covid, we were given a refund and a free replacement cruise to be taken before the end of 2022.

We chose to book at the latter end of the time scale and opted for a cruise sailing from 2nd December 2022 that encompassed stops at Cozumel, Mexico, Belize, Roatan, Honduras and Costa Maya, Mexico with an overnight stay in Florida at the start.

All fine and dandy until President Donald Trump, in a final act of spite in 2021, decided to put Cuba on the list of countries declared by the US as a State Sponsor of Terrorism with effect from January 2011!
That meant that anyone who had visited Cuba after 2010 had to attend an interview with the US embassy in London and pay about £140 for a visa before being able to enter the USA. We didn’t get to hear about this until a month before we were due to fly and as we had previously visited Cuba in 2016 this was all a bit worrying as we had no time to arrange either an interview or a visa before our sailing date.

A glimmer of hope was given when Simon Calder, the travel writer for the Guardian newspaper, mentioned that by the end of November 2022 the US tourist board, in conjunction with the US border force, MAY decide that the visa would only be applicable to people who had travelled to Cuba since January 2021, the date that Trump decreed the designation.

No confirmed news of this was given before we flew out on 2nd December but, with fingers crossed and bated breath, we decided to go for it and que sera sera .

2nd December. Miami, Florida

Waiting to be called forward at border control at Miami Airport was a bit tense but, as it happened, we were waved through with just a cursory couple of questions with nothing relating to our visit to Cuba, which was clearly stamped in our passports.
And breathe…….

We were transported, for the evening, to the Miami Lakes Hotel where we arrived just as the sun was setting so no chance of a wander around the grounds or the local environs.

[Stevieb]

3rd December. Miami, Florida

I had a couple of hours to explore the local area before the shuttle bus would arrive to take us to Port Everglades and our ship for the next week, the Star Princess.

No butterflies seen in the grounds but after a two-minute walk away from the hotel I came across some ‘wild’ bougainvillea, which was attracting good numbers of both Zebra Heliconia Heliconius charithonia, and Julia Heliconian Dryas iulia.

Zebra Heliconia Heliconius charithonia

Julia Heliconian Dryas iulia

Julia Heliconian Dryas iulia

Alongside the heliconians were a good few White Peacock Anartia jatrophae exploring the grassy areas.

White Peacock Anartia jatrophae

A quick trip to the local supermarket produced a surprising Gulf Fritillary Agraulis vanilla flitting around the parking lot.

Gulf Fritillary Agraulis vanilla

Gulf Fritillary Agraulis vanilla

[Stevieb]

4th December. Off the coast of Cuba

A day at sea but there are worse places to see England breeze through to the quarter finals of the World Cup. A couple of wandering Magnificent Frigatebirds, overhead, added to the enjoyment.

Magnificent Frigatebird

5th December Cozumel, Mexico.

The island of Cozumel didn’t disappoint. A trip to the Eco Park of Chankanaab seemed a pretty good place to start. Snorkelling at its best and a bit of ‘Jungle’ for me to peruse whilst Claire was sunbathing.

The weather was pleasantly warm with occasional cloud before turning very warm with unbroken sunshine.
After being dropped off by our taxi a quick walk around the entrance to the Eco Park gave me a birding lifer with the endemic Cozumel Emerald Cynanthus forficatus, a species of hummingbird in the family Trochilidae, busily flitting around a nectoring tree.

After an excellent snorkeling session, I left Claire soaking up the sun whilst I headed into the Chankanaab botanical garden.
Not a garden in the true sense of the word, more of a set of trails through the adjoining semi-evergreen forest. First butterfly to show was a cracking Erato Heliconian, or Red Postman Heliconius erato, quickly followed by a Dina Yellow Eurema dina. A couple of flybys from Common Morphos Morpho helenor, left me frustrated with no opportunity of a photo as they strongly weaved their way along the trails without pausing.

Red Postman Heliconius erato

Red Postman Heliconius erato

Dina Yellow Eurema dina

[Stevieb]

Leaving the park, I decided to wander along where the forest met the roadside scrub. This proved ideal habitat for quite a few species, especially in the many sunny clearings. First up was the diminutive Cloaked Scintillant Detritivor barnesi, a metalmark that gives our Small Blue a run for its money in the small size stakes.

Cloaked Scintillant Detritivor barnesi

Cloaked Scintillant Detritivor barnesi

In the scrubbier areas both Julia Heliconian and Red Postman were abundant along with Dina Yellows and a flyby Malachite Siproeta stelenes which didn’t hang around for a photo.

Further along the road, around a dry area of scrub, adjoining the forest, I found a Theona Checkerspot Chlosyne theona, basking in the sunshine.

Theona Checkerspot Chlosyne theona

Checking out the more urban open areas of short grass I found a Ceraunus Blue Hemiargus ceraunus and more Cloaked Scintillant

Ceraunus Blue Hemiargus ceraunus

[Stevieb]

Retracing my steps, and heading back to the park, I came across a superb Fine-lined Stripe-streak Arawacus sito nectoring on flowers by the road edge. This was top of my ‘most wanted’ list for Cozumel and it didn’t disappoint, being totally fine with me getting down on my hands and knees to catch its best side.

Whilst firing off numerous photos a Common Theope Theope virgilius flew over my head and landed just a few feet away, allowing a couple of quick snaps before it went on its way.

Fine-lined Stripe-streak Arawacus sito

Fine-lined Stripe-streak Arawacus sito

Common Theope Theope virgilius

Arriving back at the park, both hot and thirsty, a celebratory cold beer was had before packing up and catching a taxi back to the ship. All in all, a good few hours butterflying with some excellent results.

6th December Belize

We chose not to do anything today as we had visited Belize previously, so we just stayed around the port area drinking beer and watching the Pelicans and Frigatebirds.

Brown Pelican

[Stevieb]

7th December. Roatan, Honduras

Strong winds and strong currents prevented us from landing. Bummer…..

I had high hopes for some decent butterflies on Roatan, having visited before as a birder and noting the odd species flying around, but alas it was not to be.

I had to be content with watching Red-footed Boobies from the balcony.

Red-footed Booby

Red-footed Booby

8th December. Costa Maya, Mexico

Deciding to use the same modus operandi from Cozumel I concentrated on checking out the roadside scrub, shrubs and sunny clearings adjoining the tropical forest. As time ashore only gave me 6 hours, this should produce more species than I might find walking through the forest. As it happened this turned out to be a very effective strategy.

White Peacocks were the most abundant species, causing me consternation every time I caught one from the corner of my eye, thinking it was something else. Zebra Heliconian was the other most numerous larger species.

White Peacock

[David M]

That Fine-lined Stripe-streak is indeed superb, Steve. No wonder it was top of your hit-list.

[Stevieb]

With Skippers being absent on Cozumel, good numbers of various species were readily seen on Costa Maya including Turk’s-cap White-Skipper Heliopetes macaira and Guatemalan Checkered-Skipper Pyrgus adepta. Others included Julia’s Skipper Nastra julia, Sachem Atalopedes campestris, Fiery Skipper Hylephila phyleus and Liris Skipper Lerema liris.

Turk’s-cap White-Skipper Heliopetes macaira male

Turk’s-cap White-Skipper Heliopetes macaira female

Turk’s-cap White-Skipper Heliopetes macaira

Guatemalan Checkered-Skipper Pyrgus adepta

Fiery Skipper Hylephila phyleus

Most of the roadside verges had both Ceraunus and Eastern Tailed-Blue Everes comyntas, both in good numbers.

Eastern Tailed-Blue Everes comyntas

[Stevieb]

Various large Sulphurs would fly through at a great speed of knots only stopping to nectar for a second or so. Although challenging I did manage to get a couple of record shots of both Apricot Sulphur Phoebis argante and Orange-barred Sulphur Phoebis philea. I also came across a single Barred Yellow Eurema daira hanging around a particularly moist patch of weeds.

Apricot Sulphur Phoebis argante

Orange-barred Sulphur Phoebis philea

Barred Yellow Eurema daira

After a particularly heavy rain shower a splendid White-spotted Tanmark Emesis aurimna made the most of the returning sun to dry out and warm up along with a Four-spotted Sailor Dynamine postverta.

White-spotted Tanmark Emesis aurimna

Four-spotted Sailor Dynamine postverta

[Stevieb]

A particular patch of scrubby forest edge was proving very productive, and I returned to this patch four or five times, during my wanderings, to see what was present.

Each visit provided something new, and I managed to see Common Lemmark Juditha caucana and Pale-banded Crescent Phyciodes tulcis along with my only Swallowtail of the whole trip, a Variable Cattleheart Parides erithalion

Common Lemmark Juditha caucana

Pale-banded Crescent [i]Phyciodes tulcis

Variable Cattleheart Parides erithalion

Variable Cattleheart Parides erithalion

Other notable species here included Cloaked Scintillant, Fine-lined Stripe-Streak, Dorantes Longtail Urbanus dorantes and a rather sorry looking Red-lined Scrub-Hairstreak Strymon bebrycia.

Dorantes Longtail Urbanus dorantes

Red-lined Scrub-Hairstreak Strymon bebrycia

[Stevieb]

Along with all the fine butterfly species there were some excellent birds to be seen. I’ve added a few of the more colourful species to help finish off this report

Black-cowled Oriole

Orange Oriole

Tropical Kingbird

Yucatan Jay

Green Jay

Costa Maya was our last port of call before heading back to Miami.

Apart from missing the visit to Roatan, and any butterflies to be found there, the cruise was a great way to stop off at various locations for a day and catch up on some of the local butterflies to be had, all at an easy, relaxed pace.

Obviously more time and endeavor at each location would bring greater reward but I hope you agree, for the time made available by our cruise stops, it yielded some fair returns.

[Stevieb]

10th December Everglades

A pre-flight visit to the Everglade, to while away a few hours before our 6pm departure produced three unexpected additional species to my holiday list. My first Monarch Danaus plexippus of the holiday flitted around a few flowering shrubs at the entrance to the airboat rides along with a few Queens Danaus gilippus and Gulf Fritillaries. Cassius Blues Leptotes cassius patrolled the low hedges and short grass around the reception area, another addition to my list.

Monarch Danaus plexippus

Monarch Danaus plexippus

Queen Danaus gilippu

Queen Danaus gilippu

Cassius Blue Leptotes cassius

The obligatory ‘gaters and Ospreys were also seen during an enjoyable 30-minute airboat ride.

American Alligator

Osprey

Therein ends my report. I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed reliving the trip through it.

Please correct me on any erroneous ids, I’m sure there are some.

Kind regards

Steve

[petesmith]

Fantastic stuff Steve! Really enjoyed that, and it is notable that there is a lot of cross-over between the species that you saw, and those that we found in Costa Rica recently.

Like David - I am completely in awe of your Fine-lined Stripe-streak. What an absolute belter of a butterfly

[Stevieb]

That Fine-lined Stripe-streak is indeed superb, Steve. No wonder it was top of your hit-list.

Absolutely David, fairly common and tame to boot

[Stevieb]

Fantastic stuff Steve! Really enjoyed that, and it is notable that there is a lot of cross-over between the species that you saw, and those that we found in Costa Rica recently.

Like David - I am completely in awe of your Fine-lined Stripe-streak. What an absolute belter of a butterfly

Indeed quite a few cross-overs from your excellent report Pete. Probably would have been more if I'd concentrated on the forests too. Unfortunately time was not on my side so no chance of connecting with any Clearwings

[David M]

Some great wildlife you've picked up there, Steve. Not bad for a cruise trip!!

A few of those birds are real show-stoppers, particularly the Orange Oriole and Yucatan Jay.

[Charles Nicol]

thanks for this entertaining and informative thread !

so many butterflies i have never heard of before

[Stevieb]

Some great wildlife you've picked up there, Steve. Not bad for a cruise trip!!

A few of those birds are real show-stoppers, particularly the Orange Oriole and Yucatan Jay.

Thanks David. The amount of decent birds I've had whilst on a cruise is unbelievable. The prerequisite I have with Claire is that I can have a few chosen trips ashore purely for birding or now butterflying. Whilst birding I used to contact a local bird guide, ahead of the cruise, and arrange a birding trip out from whichever port I had chosen. Butterflying is a different matter and no guiding required as self exploration is easy enough.

[Stevieb]

thanks for this entertaining and informative thread !

so many butterflies i have never heard of before

Thank you Charles. I'm really pleased you enjoyed it.

[Padfield]

Wonderful stuff! I haven't had time to check your IDs but they all look reasonable and I don't doubt them! It is fun getting out the books and learning new tricks though, so I probably will go through them when time permits ...

Thanks for the thread!

Guy