Back towards the end of 2019, just before the world tilted on its axis and COVID chaos emerged, I had planned a trip out to south-west Spain at the end of April 2020, with the express aim of tracking down a few niche butterfly species. Of course you all know what happened next...
The trip in 2020 was duly cancelled, and rescheduled for 2021. Alas, who could have foreseen that this postponed trip would also fall victim to ongoing restrictions a year later.
So, it was with great anticipation that I flew out from Gatwick to Seville on Sunday 24th April 2022, "third time lucky", with my wife in tow. Our home base for the week was to be the Hotel Fuerte Grazalema, a wonderfully friendly hotel set amidst a Cork Oak forest, with stunning views, very friendly staff, a remarkably good breakfast and some rather fine house wines.
I had four objectives for this holiday: first and foremost, to see and photograph the Aetherie Fritillary, which would be a life-tick; secondly, to reconnect with a few species that I had only seen once before, and of which I needed better photographs - these were False Baton Blue, Spanish Marbled White, and Lorquin's Blue. It didn't seem that I was asking too much.
Thanks to some much valued help from a fellow European butterfly enthusiast (cheers Dave), I had a couple of "known sites" for my main target species.
We arrived late on the Sunday and settled in to our home for the week, with rather stunning views across towards the "pueblo blanco" of Grazalema.
On our first full day we immediately headed out to some prime habitat. The weather was middling, with temperatures around the mid-teens and some scattered sunny spells, but we managed to connect with a small colony of False Baton Blues, which were active and occasionally obligingly settling down. It was great to see this rather localized speciality in reasonable numbers!
Pseudophilotes abencerragus
On day two we headed south of Ubrique in search of our main quarry, but of the Aetherie there was not a sniff. Close by we found good numbers of Provence Hairstreaks, an absolutely delightful species and a huge pleasure to see. They were quite fresh and abundant, considering we were towards the end of April.
Tomares ballus
It seemed that the season was running late, and butterflies were in general quite thin on the ground at many sites. But the flowers were sensational, and while we were failing to find some of my main targets, I found myself paying closer attention to the flora - in particular the abundance of certain orchid species.
Mirror Orchid
Yellow Bee Orchid
Rich flora
The rest of the week flew past in a blur - plenty of lovely species appeared, including frequent encounters with Spanish Festoons and Provence Orange-tips. The festoons were very variable in terms of "red-ness".
Zerynthia rumina
Anthocharis euphenoides
A personal highlight of the trip was an encounter with what is only my second ever Lorquin's Blue, spotted by my wife.
Cupido lorquinii
Other delights included the Iberian Scarce Swallowtail, the very orangey European form of the Speckled Wood , Long-tailed and Black-eyed Blues.
Iphiclides feisthamelii
Pararge aegeria
Lampides boeticus
Glaucopsyche melanops
So, in terms of targets, I spectacularly failed to see my number one target of aetherie, and also failed to find Spanish Marbled White. On a more positive note, Lorquins and False Baton Blue were re-acquaintances that I was delighted to indulge in, as was the rather unique Provence Hairstreak. In this game, failing can just be a great excuse to try again - and I fuly intend to try again to meet up with the two targets that I missed.
To paraphrase, or perhaps rephrase a certain late rocker, "two out of four ain't bad".
Grazalema, Spain - last week
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Hi Pete
Thanks so much for the trip report. The scenery looks superb, even apart from the lovely butterfly species you saw. Always great to hear about others' butterfly trip explorations in Europe!
Thanks again
Paul
Thanks so much for the trip report. The scenery looks superb, even apart from the lovely butterfly species you saw. Always great to hear about others' butterfly trip explorations in Europe!
Thanks again
Paul
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Coincidentally , Pete , I had exactly the same idea but with a different target , Spanish Fritillary. I stayed in Malaga and drove 50 minutes for False Baton Blue and the Fritillary. As you say , spring here has been mixed weather and most butterflies are late emerging.
False Baton were plentiful once found but the same can’t be said for the fritillary. I managed to find one newly emerged and it only stayed for a minute before disappearing.
False Baton were plentiful once found but the same can’t be said for the fritillary. I managed to find one newly emerged and it only stayed for a minute before disappearing.
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
I also saw many Panoptes Blue for good comparison with the False Batons , Green striped White , and a nice Nettle tree Butterfly, never easy on the South coast .
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Hi Paul,
It's always a pleasure reporting back on European trips! I have been enjoying your personal diary of your own ventures too - and hope to see the fruits of your future trips soon

Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Hi Andy.Andy02 wrote: ↑Wed May 04, 2022 7:09 am I also saw many Panoptes Blue for good comparison with the False Batons , Green striped White , and a nice Nettle tree Butterfly, never easy on the South coast . 4CD969A6-F27B-4F48-A5AB-EAE2101DF8E5.jpeg96CF5763-62B3-47F7-8AE8-F4380A0C69BF.jpeg06C630A9-F2D7-4177-9EEE-8A1F627391FC.jpeg
We also saw just one Nettle-tree - they seem rather sporadic in appearance in the south of Spain in my experience. I have only ever encountered singletons randomly, on three occasions, once in the Sierra de Las Nieves, one in the Sierra de Los Filabres, and this one below, just outside Grazalema last week, quite unexpectedly: Bizarelly, Panoptes seemed to be rather hard to find during our trip - I didn't even manage a single decent photograph!
I am envious of your Spanish Fritillary - another species I have yet to see...
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Thanks Pete. I am here until 8th May. April was so wet and cold in April that I think it finished many of the spring butterflies. It feels like we are between emerging broods.
I haven’t found skippers in their usual places for example. My Spanish Fritillary site is always reliable so if you would like it , message me privately
I haven’t found skippers in their usual places for example. My Spanish Fritillary site is always reliable so if you would like it , message me privately
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
I also had the odd Lorquins , in this case a female , and plenty of Chapmans Blue
Re: Grazalema, Spain - last week
Nicely put, Andy. My experience in Andalusia was exactly the same. It was as if most of the butterflies had been wiped out by some apocalyptic weather event. By the coast wasn't too bad, but anywhere inland had precious few butterflies, and I'm not surprised Aetherie Fritillary was adversely affected.
On our third morning (23 April), we woke up to find snow had fallen to about 600m in the mountains just north of Almeria!! I would imagine this kind of weather event only occurs every 20 years or so.