European Butterflies - A personal diary

[selbypaul]

I’ve been thinking of beginning some sort of personal diary on here for a while. But for various reasons, I haven’t had the time. One of the biggest reasons has been my involvement in the Sheffield street tree campaign, which some of you may have read about in the national media. I’ve spent the last four years at the heart of that campaign. Fighting to prevent 50% of Sheffield’s 36,000 street trees from being felled, by Sheffield Council and its contractor, as a result of a contract obligation written into the 25 year PFI contract.

Interestingly, it was partly butterflies that drew me into that campaign. Five minutes from my house is a wonderful 120 year old Huntingdon Elm tree in the middle of the Sheffield suburbs, with resistance to Dutch Elm Disease. Importantly, it has a colony of White Letter Hairstreak butterflies.

The primary subject of this diary will be my European butterfly odyssey over the last three years, which has so far allowed me to see just over half the roughly 460 European species. But before that, I’ll write a brief introductory post about what sparked my interest in butterflies initially, and about my UK based travels in the 2008 to 2012 period.

Hope you enjoy the read
Paul

[selbypaul]

My interest in nature and wildlife more generally began as a child. I was lucky in that both my parents were interested in birds, as were my Aunty and Uncle, who lived two doors away. I was a birdwatcher throughout my childhood and teenage years, up until I turned about 25 in 2007. From that point onwards, I would now class myself as primarily a butterfly enthusiast.

It is hard to trace why my interest in butterflies really began, but I think I can trace it back to two events, indeed two spectacular butterflies.

The first was the long hot summer of 1995, when my brother and I were on four days holiday in the Lake District. We were walking up the side of Grange Fell in Borrowdale when we spotted a large butterfly. My uncle recognised it as unusual, having bright white edges to its mainly black body, but didn’t know what it was. It flew through the dappled wood/scrub and out of sight. Later that evening, on the evening news, there was a feature about an unusual number of sightings of a migrant butterfly across the UK called the Camberwell Beauty. Lo and behold, the picture of this butterfly matched what we had seen. There’s nothing like rarity to spark human interest.

But it wasn’t until summer 2006 when my interest in butterflies really took off. Most of our family holidays before then had been in the north of the UK, with the limited number of butterfly species that brings. But that year we were in Devon, and on the holiday I saw a number of species I’d never seen before. Most spectacular were the bright orange Silver Washed Fritillaries gliding through Haldon Forest. From that point on I kept a UK list.

For Christmas 2007 I received the book called “Discover butterflies in Britain” by D. E. Newland, which outlined the best sites in the UK to see the 59 UK species it describes. And so, for the next five summers, between 2008 and 2012, I spent my limited annual leave and rare free weekends timing them to see the remaining UK species I hadn’t seen.

Highlights include seeing the incredible Painted Lady invasion of late May 2009 in Hampshire whilst on Martin Down and Durlston Head. Also seeing the last proper year of the High Brown Fritillary in the Dunsford valley in Devon in 2008, before they went extinct there in either 2009 or 2010.

It took two trips to Scotland to see the Chequered Skipper. The first, in late May 2011, was a disaster. I arrived the day after 80mph winds had wreaked lots of damage, and whilst mainly dry, the temperature never rose above 10⁰C. Thankfully I was compensated for with incredible weather in late May 2012, my desired Chequered Skipper at Glasdrum woods, and glass still Lochs under clear blue skies. Locals said it was the best week of late May weather in 25 years.

My final UK “tick” was the Lulworth Skipper in July 2012. This had taken three visits, as I hadn’t realised how its flight period had significantly shifted over the years.

Thankfully my obsession was not all consuming. The summer of 2013 brought the invasion of Long Tailed Blues to the south coast, with late September seeing the first proper recorded emergence of a UK generation of the species. I nearly made a mad dash drive to the Kent coast that last weekend of September that year, but the weather forecast was mixed, so decided not to go. Had I gone, I’d have needed to cancel a first date with what turned out to be my current partner. On such small twists of fate…..!

But as I said in my first post in this diary, it is not going to be about the UK species I saw in that 2006 to 2012 period, it is going to be about my European adventures. So my next post will begin that journey.

[David M]

I enjoyed reading that preliminary background information, Paul, and I will very much look forward to seeing half of the European butterfly species on the pages to come!

Like you, my current interest was stimulated by a change of environment, although mine was a permanent relocation. All of a sudden, I was seeing Marbled Whites, Small Skippers, Purple Hairstreaks and Brimstones as a matter of routine, butterflies I'd never been familiar with before having lived in the north west of England. It felt like I was 12 years old again!

I have a feeling I'll eventually be seeing some familiar Spanish butterflies?

[selbypaul]

I enjoyed reading that preliminary background information, Paul, and I will very much look forward to seeing half of the European butterfly species on the pages to come!

Like you, my current interest was stimulated by a change of environment, although mine was a permanent relocation. All of a sudden, I was seeing Marbled Whites, Small Skippers, Purple Hairstreaks and Brimstones as a matter of routine, butterflies I'd never been familiar with before having lived in the north west of England. It felt like I was 12 years old again!

I have a feeling I'll eventually be seeing some familiar Spanish butterflies?

Thanks David
It's always interesting to see how people's passion for butterflies is sparked or re-sparked. And yes, sunny central Spain and it's wonderful butterflies will certainly feature, but not until many other destinations are featured first
Best wishes
Paul

[David M]

..It's always interesting to see how people's passion for butterflies is sparked or re-sparked. And yes, sunny central Spain and it's wonderful butterflies will certainly feature, but not until many other destinations are featured first.

Bring it on, Paul. This is going to be an education.

[Charles Nicol]

i am also enjoying your butterfly journey Paul

looking forward to future instalments

Charles

[selbypaul]

i am also enjoying your butterfly journey Paul

looking forward to future instalments

Charles

Thanks Charles. I'm aiming to post stuff at least once a week over the autumn and winter, whilst UK butterfly activity is quiet

[selbypaul]

I guess my interest in UK butterflies was always going to lead to a wider interest in all butterflies, why wouldn’t it? As a child I had been abroad a few times, to holiday destinations like Mallorca and Majorca, but actually, most of our family holidays were in the UK.

After I got my first job in 2004, I finally had enough money to begin taking my own holidays abroad. But actually, the priority was saving money for a house deposit! That and my quest to see all of the UKs butterflies meant most of my holidays were still spent in the UK.

I did visit Poland in June 2004 with a friend. It was mainly a sightseeing trip, but we did spend two days in the Tatra Mountains on the border of Slovakia. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had concentrated on any butterflies that might have been flying, as the Tatra Mountains seem to be a good butterfly destination!

In September 2008, another friend and I took a trip to Florence in Italy. Again, it was mainly sightseeing, but we did spend a day in Tuscany. In one of the vineyards I saw an unusual Blue butterfly and took the photo below, not knowing what it was. It turned out to be a Long Tailed Blue (lampides boeticus). And whilst it isn’t a particularly good photo, it is an important one. Because it was my first non-UK tick!

Long Tailed Blue

[selbypaul]

Incredibly, my next trip to Europe wasn’t for another six years, in September 2014 to Cyprus. By this time, my hunt to see all the UKs butterflies had ended two years earlier. And indeed, much of the following two years had been focused on significant building work at my house, and my job. Not much time for anything else.

A group of us went for a friend’s wedding, staying in the Paphos area. I didn’t take my macro camera, nor anything for spotting wildlife in general. Again, with the benefit of hindsight, I wish I had, given the number of endemics and specialities on Cyprus!

Despite not having much free time whilst there, I did manage to get two spare hours one day. I didn’t even know what I was looking for, such was my lack of knowledge of European butterfly species. I didn’t even have a copy of Tolman and Lewington (2009) – the Collins Butterfly Guide.

So, when I saw a colony of very active, small blue butterflies, I had no idea what they were, other than being very different to anything I’d seen before. After a bit of research effort when back at home, I worked out that they had been African Grass Blue (zizeeria knysna).

I also took some terrible photos on my phone camera of three species near the hotel I was staying at.

One was this Swallowtail (papilo machaon). I’d seen the britannicus form in the UK, but not the European gorganus form before. So I was chuffed to see it flying most of the day from my sunbed!

Swallowtail

Again, when back home, I deduced what the other two were. Eastern Bath White (pontia edusa) and Mallow Skipper (carcharodus alceae).

Eastern Bath White

Mallow Skipper

So, excitingly, four new species without even trying.

[selbypaul]

Hindsight seems to be a theme so far in many of most posts above. And so it proved to be again, in January 2016, when my partner and I went on a sun holiday to Tenerife. Or should that be stupidity rather than hindsight?

I went there thinking that because it was January, no butterflies would be flying. Why I didn’t think that the year-round warm sunny climate wouldn’t lead to some butterfly species flying year round too, I don’t know. But I didn’t take my macro camera again, so no photos!

I was however delighted to see a Monarch (danaus plexippus), which until I saw it, didn’t even know it had established itself anywhere in Europe. I knew of occasional sightings in the southern UK, but assumed these were all windblown from the USA.

I also saw a Brimstone, which at the time I assumed was normal UK Brimstone. But actually turns out to be Canary Brimstone (gonepteryx cleobule)

Another species I unknowingly saw was Canary Speckled Wood (parage xhipioides), assuming it was just normal Speckled Wood.

Finally, in the rocky former larva flows underneath Mount Teide, I definitely saw butterflies flying in the distance over the rocks. Hindsight and research now suggests they were probably Tenerife Grayling (hipparchia wyssii), but I didn’t get a good enough or close enough view, let alone a photo, so I’m not counting it sadly. One for another day in the future hopefully!

So, another three new species, despite not expecting to see any at all.

[selbypaul]

2016 would actually turn out to be the year my passion for European butterflies properly began.

Having been promoted a year earlier at work, I now had more disposable income. My partner and I had always wanted to visit the ancient and unspoiled wild woods of Bialowieza in Poland. And doing my research on the internet, I discovered that a company called Naturetrek did an organised wildlife holiday there over the early May bank holiday weekend. (https://www.naturetrek.co.uk/tours/pola ... al-forests)

So we booked on the trip. And it was great, particularly for the bird watching and to see the native European Bison in the wild. But also the incredible atmosphere in the “Strict Reserve” which is unlike any forest I’ve ever been to. There were some spring butterflies, but all were species seen in the UK.

It was however, whilst booking the Poland Naturetrek holiday, that I noticed that they also did organised butterfly spotting holidays across Europe. One in particular stood out to me, Butterflies of the Dolomites (https://www.naturetrek.co.uk/tours/butt ... -dolomites).

I’d always wanted to visit the Dolomites, having seen photos that my Nana took when she visited 20 years earlier. And with an extra week of annual leave compared to my partner, I thought I’d give it a go. I booked the holiday as a test, to see if I’d enjoy group holidays, with people I didn’t know. And also to see if I’d enjoy a full 8 days focused solidly on butterflies. I’m so very glad I did….

[David M]

That's a good read, Paul. Your early evolution was similar to mine - an initially slow transition giving way to a passion that will never go away.

You first dip your toe in the water, and soon afterwards you're in at the deep end. Once you can swim confidently, it never leaves you.

[Charles Nicol]

Am enjoying the unfolding story Paul !

I hope to go on a Naturetrek holiday in the future.

Charles

[selbypaul]

That's a good read, Paul. Your early evolution was similar to mine - an initially slow transition giving way to a passion that will never go away.

You first dip your toe in the water, and soon afterwards you're in at the deep end. Once you can swim confidently, it never leaves you.

Indeed, at this moment in my life, it feels like it really is a passion that will never go away. I keep thinking, if only I was retired, there are so many places to visit, and so much I want to do try and conserve some of the special habitats under threat.

[selbypaul]

Am enjoying the unfolding story Paul !

I hope to go on a Naturetrek holiday in the future.

Charles

I can vouch for both Naturetrek and Greenwings holidays so far. In 2020 I'll hopefully be testing out both Greentours and Wild Echo for myself too. I've had good reviews from others. Maybe see you on one of the holidays soon Charles!

[David M]

Indeed, at this moment in my life, it feels like it really is a passion that will never go away. I keep thinking, if only I was retired, there are so many places to visit, and so much I want to do try and conserve some of the special habitats under threat.

With every passing year things get more urgent with regard to conservation, Paul. It's good to know there are people out there who can make a difference in, say, 15 - 20 years time.

Most of the folks with a passion for butterflies are older than I am, and I do sometimes worry about whether there are sufficient numbers to take their place.

[selbypaul]

With every passing year things get more urgent with regard to conservation, Paul. It's good to know there are people out there who can make a difference in, say, 15 - 20 years time.

Most of the folks with a passion for butterflies are older than I am, and I do sometimes worry about whether there are sufficient numbers to take their place.

I sometimes wonder that too David. Here's hoping that there are enough of us around in 20 to 30 years time to make that difference!

[selbypaul]

The eight day Naturetrek Butterflies and Moths of the Italian Dolomites holiday began on Thursday 14th July 2016. Flying out from London Gatwick at lunchtime, and arriving in Venice Marco Polo just after 3pm. Our tour guides for the holiday were Alan Miller (from the UK), and Luca Sattin (from Venice). Both would turn out to be excellent and patient guides. I was one of nine guests, all of us with a varied interest in nature of different sorts, not just butterflies, but plants, birds and other insects too.

A two hour drive from Venice to the mountains, saw us arrive in our base location for the week, the wonderful Hotel Gran Mugon, in the small hamlet of Tamion, just above the town of Vigo di Fassa.

The scenery on the drive was excellent, and I did even see two butterflies in the late afternoon warmth along the side of the road. A Brimstone and a Painted Lady.

I include photos of the hotel and its surroundings in the village of Tamion.

Hotel Gran Mugon

Tamion

A simply wonderful location, there are even Glow Worms, 50 metres down the lane from the hotel. Excellent food too. Plus a free spa in the hotel for guests, including an outdoor jacuzzi with views straight out across the valley to the mountains on the other side. A perfect way to relax at the end of the day, before dinner.

[selbypaul]

Day 2 was the first proper day of the holiday. Interestingly, it was actually the worst day of weather all week, as the weather got progressively hotter and sunnier as the week went on.

But the “worst” wasn’t that bad. It started off clear, clouded over at lunchtime, with a cooler wind, but became sunny again in the late afternoon.

It was a bit of an acclimatisation day really, giving us an idea of the type of species we might see regularly during the week. We started the morning with a short walk straight from the hotel, along a dappled forest track, to a large grass clearing in the pine woods. All at around 1500 metres above sea level.

The afternoon was spent across the Fassa valley, the other side of the town of Vigo di Fassa, in the Val di Monzoni and Val San Nicolo.

We then had a final stop in a meadow very close to the hotel, where we saw a few new species.

Over the course of the day, the group as a whole saw 20 species, of which I saw 19. Of the 19 I did see, six were new species for me, namely:
Titania’s Fritillary (boloria titania)
Arran Brown (erebia ligea)
Woodland Ringlet (erebia medusa form hippomedusa)
Large Wall Brown (lasiommata maera)
Warrens Grizzled Skipper (pyrgus warrensis)
Olive Skipper (pyrgus serratulae)

Titania’s Fritillary (boloria titania)

Arran Brown (erebia ligea)

Woodland Ringlet (erebia medusa form hippomedusa)

Large Wall Brown (lasiommata maera)

Warrens Grizzled Skipper (pyrgus warrensis)

Olive Skipper (pyrgus serratulae)

[selbypaul]

The weather on Day 3 was stunning. Literally cloudless all day, with crystal clear views. We caught the cable car from Vigo di Fassa up to Rosengarten, and then walked the generally flat 2.5 mile walk from there to Gardeccia, where we had lunch, before walking the same path back to Rosengarten, and the cable car back down. So we spent pretty much all day at a height of roughly 1950 to 2000 metres

The scenery was literally stunning, and it was hard not to take loads of photos just of the views. Lots of wildlife was seen, not just butterflies. I was impressed to see my first ever Nutcracker, as well as an Alpine Chamois high up on the mountain tops.

There was quite a bit of butterfly interest just around the Rosengarten cable car station, and we spent about two hours in total during the day just hunting in this area.

View from Rosengarten 1

View from Rosengarten 2

The walk from there to Gardeccia is mainly through pine woods, broken every now and again with a ski slope. These ski slopes were well worth exploring as they were full of wild flowers, and therefore butterflies.

Halfway along the path from Rosengarten to Gardeccia

Gardeccia itself is very very pretty, a very open grassy area beneath the high mountains, and it was here we saw all the erebia for the day.

View from Gardeccia 1

View from Gardeccia 2

18 butterfly species were seen in total, I saw 17 of them, and 8 were new species for me:
Mountain Green Veined White (pieris bryoniae)
Geranium Argus (eumedonia eumedon)
Alpine Blue (albulina orbitulus)
Mazerine Blue (cyaniris semiargus)
Shepherds Fritillary (boloria pales)
Blind Ringlet (erebia pharte)
Common Brassy Ringlet (erebia cassioides)
Alpine Heath (coenonympha gardetta)

Mountain Green Veined White (pieris bryoniae)

Geranium Argus (eumedonia eumedon)

Alpine Blue (albulina orbitulus)

Mazerine Blue (cyaniris semiargus)

Shepherds Fritillary (boloria pales)

Common Brassy Ringlet (erebia cassioides)

Alpine Heath (coenonympha gardetta)