European Butterflies - A personal diary

[selbypaul]

Nice to read someone else's thoughts on this trip, Paul.

I'm still having dilemmas over why Plain Tigers were practically absent when they had been so numerous earlier in the month near Valencia.

Very strange isn't it. It surely has to be climate/weather related. Either in Africa where most of the Plain Tiger's come from, or in Spain itself.

[selbypaul]

It was definitely a really nice trip, a bit of a shame that PlainTiger only showed up once (from a distance), but otherwise everything else was okay and the group was really good.

Definitely a great group of people John. It was lovely to see you again.

[selbypaul]

The morning of Day 5 of the trip, Friday 27th September, was a bit of a gamble from our guide David Moore. He took us to a two “botanical parks” in the hope of seeing closer views of Plain Tiger (Danaus chrysippus). Sadly, they were more like parks, with lots of mowed grass, of zero botanical interest.

The park, right on the border with Gibraltar

That said, the first one yielded a fantastic little colony of African Grass Blue (Zizeeria knysna). Also a female Southern Blue (Polyommatus celina), and my only Clouded Yellow (Colias crocea) of the week.

African Grass Blue, photo 1

African Grass Blue, photo 2

Female Southern Blue

Our lunch and early afternoon stop was inland, northwest of Algeciras, and proved to be much better for butterflies. There were good numbers of Small Copper (Lycaena phlaeas), Southern Brown Argus (Aricia cramera) and Tree Grayling (Hipparchia statilinus). A Two Tailed Pascha (Charaxes jasius) also whizzed through.

Habitat at our lunch stop

Small Copper

We then made our third visit of the week to the Tarifa site. While the other guests spent time photographing Monarch’s and searching for the elusive Plain Tiger, I spent 40 minutes under three Acacia trees I’d found, looking for any hint of butterfly movement in the canopy. Surely, at this most southern point in Spain, only 8 miles from Morocco, couldn’t some Acacia trees attract African Babul Blue (Azanus jesous)?

I nearly had a heart attack when a tiny looking blue butterfly fluttered rapidly through the canopy. It stopped briefly a few times, sufficient for me to get my binoculars on it…. Lang’s Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous)! Hey ho.

We made a final stop for the day, not for butterflies, but for the views across to Morocco.

The view from Spain, looking out to Morocco

[selbypaul]

Day 6 of the trip was departures day, with parts of the group going early, some later. We said our sad goodbyes to the guests with the early departure. For some of the rest of us, we actually had time to visit the Jardin Botanico Historico La Concepcion, near Malaga, in the morning. This was more like a proper botanical gardens, and there were quite a few things in flower.

The Jardin Botanico Historico La Concepcion

We were delighted to see this Cardinal (Argynnis pandora) just outside the entrance.

Cardinal

There were more good views of Mediterranean Skipper (Gegenes nostrodamus).

Mediterranean Skipper

Also, good numbers of Lang’s Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous), and this single African Grass Blue (Zizeeria knysna).

Lang's Short Tailed Blue

After this, we set off for Malaga airport, and said our final goodbyes to each other. It was more than just a goodbye to Spain and the other guests. It was the end to my European butterflying for the year. While 2024 has been a terrible year for overall numbers of butterflies in Western Europe, it has still been a year of good butterflying times for me. Here's (hopefully) to many more to come.

[David M]

Glad to see someone eventually found a 'proper' botanic gardens, Paul!

Didn't you see Monarch in there too?

[selbypaul]

Glad to see someone eventually found a 'proper' botanic gardens, Paul!

Didn't you see Monarch in there too?

Lol - Your attempts were valid based on information online. Just a shame the reality didn't match!

And yes, we did see Monarch there. Just the one, but it did pose well enough for photos.

[David M]

..Your attempts were valid based on information online. Just a shame the reality didn't match!

Do the Spanish have an equivalent of the Trade Descriptions Act? If they do, then certainly the Betty Molesworth site was in breach!

[selbypaul]

On Thursday 7th November 2024, I set off for a week in La Palma, in the Canary Islands. It was explicitly not a holiday focused on butterflies, I needed a proper rest after an extremely busy year.

That said, my partner did do a walk on one day in the Laurel forest, and I did keep an eye out for any butterflies throughout the week. November to January are the worst months of the year for butterflies on this island, so numbers were low.

The Laurel forest in the north east of La Palma, photo 1

The Laurel forest in the north east of La Palma, photo 2

Most common were Monarch's (Danaus plexippus), and 3+ were regular around the well maintained gardens in the hotel I was staying at.

Monarch

Next most common was Small White (Pieris rapae), followed by a small number of Long Tailed Blue (Lampides boeticus). I also saw individuals of Bath White (Pontia daplidice), Lang's Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous), and a couple of Canary Red Admiral (Vanessa vulcania).

The highlight was a single Canary Islands Large White (Pieris cheiranthi), seen from the window of a bus! I'd only seen this species once before, on Tenerife, where it is at risk of extinction.

More generally, La Palma was suffering a drought, with all the barranco's bone dry. There wasn't a drop of rain all week, and temperatures hit 30C for part of the week, 12C above normal temperatures for that time of year. One of the locals told me that, historically, the wind direction from the Sahara occurred perhaps 3 days a month as recently as a decade ago. Over the last few years, this can now be 2 to 3 days a week! Yet more evidence of climate change in action, with all its associated impacts.

Clear blue skies and 30C, extreme weather!

[Padfield]

Hi Paul. That's very interesting. I spent a week on La Palma in March 2001, by which time Canary blues, Canary large whites, Canary speckled woods, Canary Lulworth Skippers, plain tigers and Canary red admirals were all on the wing. I stayed in Los Llanos de Aridane, in the west of the island, and walked everywhere. None of the endemic graylings were on the wing. The books said the Canaries have a fairly uniform climate, with an average of 25°C all year round, but it is clear they do have seasons, at least as far as the butterflies are concerned. I was thinking of a winter trip this year but will now shelve that idea!

Guy

[selbypaul]

Hi Paul. That's very interesting. I spent a week on La Palma in March 2001, by which time Canary blues, Canary large whites, Canary speckled woods, Canary Lulworth Skippers, plain tigers and Canary red admirals were all on the wing. I stayed in Los Llanos de Aridane, in the west of the island, and walked everywhere. None of the endemic graylings were on the wing. The books said the Canaries have a fairly uniform climate, with an average of 25°C all year round, but it is clear they do have seasons, at least as far as the butterflies are concerned. I was thinking of a winter trip this year but will now shelve that idea!

Guy

My experience is that there are always butterflies to be seen, no matter which month you go, or which island you visit. But that November to January have very low numbers. And those low numbers can extend into February and March, if they have a poor Spring. Equally, on some of the warmer islands, in an "early" year, February can be pretty good.

It depends what you are visiting for. If it for "life ticks" then you need to pick the month of your visit carefully, varying it by island.

If, however, you are just generally interested in seeing butterflies in a warm climate and getting away from grey gloom in mainland Europe, a visit at any time of year can be a real tonic!

[David M]

Good to see you get away again, Paul, and Monarch is not a bad species to have as a last butterfly of the year if indeed that comes to pass.

I note that recently, a fair bit of rain has fallen in the Canary Isles. That is a good thing as the last couple of years have been abnormally dry. Interesting to hear what that local told you about the shift in the normally prevailing weather systems.

[selbypaul]

Regular readers of this Personal Diary of mine will know that I always head to one of the Canary Islands or Madeira each January, for a proper relaxing break and to top up my Vitamin D levels. I always try to get one day of butterflying in, if I can.

This year, I delayed my trip by a month, explicitly to target some of the endemic butterflies of Gran Canaria, one of the islands I've never previously visited before. I'd booked the trip last March, having seen the exploits of Luca Sattin on Gran Canaria in early February 2024. (Luca was one of the two guides on my very first butterflying trip abroad to the Dolomites in July 2016).

We flew out on Thursday 6th February. As ever, I had limited days dedicated to butterflying, just 1.5 days, as I was with my partner. We were staying in Maspalomas, and the weather was perfect all week, nearly wall to wall sunshine.

The area around Maspalomas is one of just two places in the whole of Europe (the other being on the neighbouring island of Fuerteventura) where Desert Babul Blue (Azanus ubaldus) can be found. By fluke, I'd researched a potential location just 10 minutes walk from my hotel. So, on the first afternoon, I headed off for a short stroll to see if the larval host Acacia trees were still there, and if so, was the butterfly.

Interestingly, there were two species of Acacia along the stretch of road. Most were the white flowered variety, and there was no sign of any butterflies. However, there were two smaller yellow flowered trees, and some very small blue butterflies were occasionally buzzing around the canopy of one of these trees. Was it Desert Babul Blue? It took 10 minutes for one to settle long enough for me to confirm it was! Fantastic, a new species for me. Despite staying at the less than salubrious location for 60 minutes, the butterflies rarely settled. There were three or four individuals. These were the best pictures I was able to take.

Desert Babul Blue upperside

Desert Babul Blue on Acacia flower

Desert Babul Blue underside

Pleased with the new species, I walked a further 15 minutes to the small Maspalomas Botanical Gardens. Historically, African Migrant (Catopsilia florella) had been seen here. But there was no evidence of its larval host plant in the gardens, and the only species I saw were Small White (Pieris rapae) and a good number (around 30 individuals) of Monarch (Danaus plexippus), including a mating pair.

Mating Monarch

[John Vergo]

Hi Paul
Congrat with that ubaldus, it is such a beautiful little blue, I have seen ONE in the Taurito Valley (Gran Canary) march 2014, a female, so I still need the male

[selbypaul]

Hi Paul
Congrat with that ubaldus, it is such a beautiful little blue, I have seen ONE in the Taurito Valley (Gran Canary) march 2014, a female, so I still need the male

Thanks John! It was a great start to my 2025 butterflying! My first species being a brand new species! I saw three more new species on Gran Canaria, write up in this Personal Diary due later this week.

I'm also predicting 25 to 30 further new species later this year on the trips I have planned, one of which is with you! Hope you are looking forward to that one as much as I am!

[David M]

That was an excellent find, Paul. I often wonder whether these insects arrive in the Canaries during calima events, following which they set up temporary colonies which don't then seem to be sustainable long term.

[selbypaul]

Indeed David, I'm not 100% sure myself.

There is evidence in southern Spain about the related African Babul Blue (Azanus jesous) making repeat brief colonisations on the same trees. And of jesous being found on exactly the same 5km square in Cyprus in both 1940 and 2015, with no intervening sightings between or after, despite extensive searching. So that would play to your theory, David.

But on Gran Canaria (and Fuerteventura), Desert Babul Blue (Azanus ubaldus) does appear to be more permanent colonies. Certainly the main colonies seem more permanent, if not the smaller outlying outposts.

[selbypaul]

The weather remained excellent in Gran Canaria, the whole week we were there. In Maspalomas, there were clear blue skies all day, every day, with the temperature in the shade reaching 23C in the afternoon each day.

Clear blue skies every day!

Around the hotel, Monarch (Danaus plexippus) and Small White (Pieris rapae) were common, and the occasional Long Tailed Blue (Lampides boeticus). There were also African Grass Blue (Zizeeria knysna) on some of the grass areas.

African Grass Blue (upperside)

African Grass Blue (underside)

Like I said in my previous post, I had one day in which to carry out my main butterflying of the trip. I did this on 10th February, which was forecast to be the best day of weather across the whole island. Which turned out to be the correct forecast. The plan, which I stuck to, was to drive north from Maspalomas, up the GC-505, into the central mountains, and then back down again the other side, heading to the Botanical Gardens near La Calzada.

The GC-505 valley seems to be known as one of the best spots to see the endemic Gran Canaria Green Striped White (Euchloe grancanariensis). I'd done my research beforehand, and found a number of sites lower down where this species had seen regularly. However, stopping at both sites, they were bone dry and desiccated. No larval host plant to be seen, and no butterflies of any species flying.

Driving higher up, I did see this species in flight, two or three times, while driving. But each time was at points with no stopping places. Some sections of the road were very narrow and tortuous. When I did stop further on, with passing places, the only White flying was Small White. Quite frustrating! Yes, a new species seen, but I do like to get at least a record shot. Not this time, sadly.

Moving on, I stopped at the main car park on the northern side of the Cueva de las Ninas reservoir.

The (completely dried up) reservoir floor

While it may seem to be crazy early to be trying for Grayling species in February, Gran Canaria Grayling (Hipparchia tamadabae) has regularly been seen here in February, and occasionally in late January too. I spent a full hour at this site, searching in likely spots. No sign of the target species sadly, despite perfect conditions.

Bath White (Pontia daplidice) was actually the most common species. But I also saw a number of Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui), and a Brown Argus (Aricia agestis).

Bath White

Painted Lady

I drove higher again, stopping a further 20 minutes away, near to the highest point I'd reach on the roads. Here was a spot where Canary Blue (Cyclyrius webbianus) is regularly seen. Within 2 minutes, I saw one individual. It was very active, but I managed this record shot, before it flew off.

Canary Blue

Canary Blue habitat

Having had such quick success, I assumed I'd see a number of individuals of this species at this location. However, despite another 30 minutes of searching, I didn't see a single other individual, or even the same individual again.

I did, however, see a Grayling species fly past me. Given there is only one Grayling on Gran Canaria, it could only have been Gran Canaria Grayling. So, while the lack of photographs was a bit frustrating, this site did yield two new lifers.

I drove on, and as I crossed the high point, and began descending, the habitat changed to slightly more vegetated. While driving, I saw the distinctive Canary Red Admiral (Vanessa vulcania) in flight. Interestingly, it was the only one individual of this species I saw all week. I’d hope to see at least a few at my destination, the Botanic Gardens, but I didn’t see any.

The gardens were beautiful and surprisingly quiet in terms of people, but there was lots of birdsong. Particularly Blackbirds (with a slightly different song), a Turtle Dove, and this subspecies of Robin.

Robin (Canary Islands subspecies)

The Botanic Gardens

The main targets at this site was African Migrant (Catopsilia florella) and American Painted Lady (Vanessa virginiensis). Both have been seen regularly here over the years. I’d seen the latter on Tenerife in 2022, so my main focus was the former, looking for its larval host plant. I didn’t see a single one!

There were lots of Canary Speckled Wood (Pararge xiphioides). I also saw a few Lang’s Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous) and a single Small Copper (Lycaena phlaeas).

After walking the whole site, it had reached 4pm, so I made the 40-minute motorway drive back to our hotel. It was a weird drive back. I’d seen three new species in a day, something that won’t often be repeated in the future. Yet I’d only had fleeting views of all three. Butterfly numbers were generally low, and I’d not seen some other species I’d hoped to see.

The reason for my strange disappointment wasn’t, however, the lack of butterflies seen. It was deeper than that. The Canary Islands are experiencing their third consecutive winter of limited rain. Previously good habitats are desiccated. Even the wetter side of the island was pretty dry. I’d seen the same in La Palma in November, where I’d been told about the completely shifted weather patterns. Here's a photo of one of the wettest valleys on the wettest parts of the island, at historically the wettest time of year.

The dry valley

Look how dry it is, broadly. It’s really very worrying.

[David M]

Been several days with light rain in the Canaries lately, Paul. I hope this will go some way to invigorate the flora over there.

[selbypaul]

Been several days with light rain in the Canaries lately, Paul. I hope this will go some way to invigorate the flora over there.

I really hope you are right David! It needs some serious rain though, over an extended period of time, to fill the reservoirs up.